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141.
The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improveraent of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient. The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phase difference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda s method and satisfactory results are obtained.  相似文献   
142.
Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century, intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   
143.
根据1983-1989年南麂海洋站在台风影响过程中的实测风和浪资料,分析了该海域的波浪特征。结果表明,这个海域的台风波浪通常是混合浪,在台风影响过程中出现的最大值波高,既有较大波陡的风浪,也有波陡较小的清浪;各向波高的均值变化不大,各向最大波高却有较大幅度的差距;本区的台风浪以4级波高占优,风浪以NNE向、涌浪以E向为常浪向;波高为4级的风浪和涌浪,其周期分别在4.0-4.9S和7.0-7.9S之  相似文献   
144.
环台湾岛海域半日潮波特征的三维模拟   总被引:10,自引:0,他引:10  
用1997版POM海洋模式,首次应用于环台湾岛海域的潮波数值研究.得到该海域的半日潮波主要为23°N以南西太平洋传来的胁振潮.影响台湾海峡的半日潮波分别由海峡南北口传入的两支潮波,且北支强于南支.福建沿岸湄州湾-兴化湾为最强潮区,其M2分潮最大振幅可达240cm.最强潮流区位于澎湖水道,M2分潮最大潮流达196cm/s.环台湾岛海域潮波潮流水平结构上除海峡北部原有一个圆流点外,还发现另外存在4个新的圆流点.潮流垂直结构上主要为右偏,接近底层处为左偏.  相似文献   
145.
9914号(Dan)台风浪的后报试验研究   总被引:5,自引:2,他引:5  
利用WAM第三代海浪模式的第四版本(WAMC4)对40a来造成福建沿海灾害最严重的9914号台风海浪过程进行了后报试验,并与近岸常规观测和卫星高度计有效波高资料进行了比较。与常规观测站的比较结果表明,WAMC4能较好地再现海浪的发展过程。后报结果与TOPEX/POSEIDON和ERS-2卫星观测资料的对比研究表明,风速的后报结果与卫星观测有较好的一致性,但海浪的后报比卫星高度计反演的有效波高整体略偏低。  相似文献   
146.
Numerical modeling of nonlinear water waves over heterogeneous porous beds   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Eric C. Cruz  Qin Chen   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(8-9):1303-1321
The transformation of nonlinear water waves over porous beds is studied by applying a numerical model based on Chen's [2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 132:2, 220–230] Boussinesq-type equations for highly nonlinear waves on permeable beds. The numerical model uses a high-order time-marching solution and fourth-order finite-difference schemes for discretization of first-order spatial derivatives to obtain a computational accuracy consistent with the model equations. By forcing the wave celerity and spatial porous-damping rate of the linearized model to match the exact linear theory for horizontal porous bed over a prescribed range of relative depths, the values of the model parameters are optimally determined. Numerical simulations of the damped wave propagation over finite-thickness porous layer demonstrate the accuracy of both the numerical model and governing equations, which have been shown by prior theoretical analyses to be accurate for both nominal and thick porous layers. These simulations also elucidate on the significance of the higher-order porous-damping terms and the influence of the hydraulic parameters. Application of the model to the simulation of the wave field around a laboratory-scale submerged porous mound provides a measure of its capability, as well as useful insight into the scaling of the porous-resistance coefficients. For application to heterogeneous porous beds, the assumption of weak spatial variation of the porous resistance is examined using truncated forms of the governing equations. The results indicate that the complete set of Boussinesq-type equations is applicable to porous beds of nonhomogeneous makeup.  相似文献   
147.
重力异常垂向一阶导数的一种简便算法   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
利用拉格朗日插值导出了重力异常垂向一阶导数的计算公式,给出了地面以及地面之上不同高度的求导系数。该公式可以计算地面上的重力垂向一阶导数,还可以直接计算地面之上任意高度上的垂向一阶导数。鉴于该公式除系数不同外,与上延公式完全相同,因此,程序设计尤为简单。使用本公式对模型数据和实际资料进行了处理,证明了本算法的实用性。  相似文献   
148.
基于数学和分析力学角度分别推导了航空矢量重力测量的数学模型,得到了一致的模型公式;给出了矢量模型的3个分量形式,其中垂直方向的分量就是标量重力测量的数学模型;简要介绍了我国研制成功的航空标量重力测量系统CHAGS的数据处理的过程,分析了标量重力测量中测线交叉点和重复测线的重力异常的精度;根据实测数据计算的结果表明:测线交叉点重力异常不符值的标准差约为5×10-5ms-2左右,重复测线的内符合精度优于5×10-5ms-2,达到了预期的要求。  相似文献   
149.
An efficient method for gravity field determination from CHAMP orbits and accelerometer data is referred to as the energy balance approach. A new CHAMP gravity field recovery strategy based on the improved energy balance approach IS developed in this paper. The method simultaneously solves the spherical harmonic coefficients, daily Integration constant, scale and bias parameters. Two 60 degree and order gravitational potential models, XISM-CHAMPO1S from the classical energy balance approach, and XISM-CHAMPO2S from the improved energy balance, are determined using about one year's worth of CHAMP kinematic orbits from TUM and accelerometer data from GFZ. Comparisons among XISM-CHAMPO1S, XISM-CHAMPO2S, EIGEN-CGO3C, EIGEN-CHAMPO3S, EIGEN2, ENIGNIS and EGM96 are made. The results show that the XISM-CHAMPO2S model is more accurate than EGM96, EIGENIS, EIGEN2 and XISM-CHAMPO1S at the same degree and order, and has almost the same accuracy as EIGEN-CHAMPO3S.  相似文献   
150.
t Gravity anomalies on a2.5 ×2.5 arc-minute grid in a non-tidal system were derived over the South China and Philippine Seas from multi-satellite altimetry data. North and east components of deflections of the vertical were computed from altimeter-derived sea surface heights at crossover locations, and gridded onto a 2.5 × 2.5 arc-minute resolution grid. EGM96-derived components of deflections of the vertical and gravity anomalies gridded into 2.5 × 2.5 arc-minute resolutions were then used as reference global geopotential model quantities in a remove-restore procedure to implement the Inverse Vening Meinesz formula via the 1D-FFT technique to predict the gravity anomalies over the South China and Philippine Seas from the gridded altimeter-derived components of deflections of the vertical. Statistical comparisons between the altimeter-derived and the shipboard gravity anomalies showed that there is a root-mean-square agreement of 5.7 mgals between them.  相似文献   
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